Four places to eat like a local in Japan

2.5 min read

My culinary career has enabled me to travel to many wonderful destinations all around the world, and one country that I’ve visited often throughout the years is Japan.

My first voyage to the Land of the Rising Sun was in 1996 when I was invited to cook at the Australian embassy. Since then, I’ve been back to Japan about twice a year, often on business trips, but also to enjoy what the country has to offer on holiday. There’s so much great food all around Japan and you don’t have to always go to a big-name restaurant to have a great dining experience. Here are four recommendations for eating like a local, based on my most recent trip.

Tempura Counter Bar at Yoshikawa Inn, Kyoto

Yoshikawa Inn is a ryokan: a Japanese style bed and breakfast. I really enjoy staying at ryokans as a way of experiencing a traditional Japanese lifestyle, such as sleeping on futons on the tatami mat floors. The food served at a ryokan also tends to be characteristic of the region, so normally I have dinner there on my first night’s stay as a way of immersing in the local culture.

Yoshikawa Inn opened its Tempura Counter Bar in 1964 and at the time it was a revolutionary style of dining for the city. In my opinion, they have the best tempura in Kyoto. Make sure you request a seat at the counter so you can watch the master prepare the tempura right before your eyes.

Street food in Takayama

Old Town is the best place in Takayama to enjoy local delicacies while wandering the streets. A hole-in-the-wall takeaway shop called Hidda Kotte Ushi serves made-to-order nigiri sushi using Hida beef, a variety of wagyu that is bred in the region and famous for its unique muscle and marbling.

Hida beef three pieces set 900 yen (Image source: digjapan.travel)

The beef is grilled medium rare for a perfect melt-in-your-mouth texture and laid over sushi rice. As a zero-waste alternative to plates or disposable containers, the sushi is served on handmade rice crackers made with fresh shrimp and asoa (a type of algae) that can be eaten once you’ve finished your sushi. For a dessert that can also be enjoyed on the go, look out for the matcha and sour cherry soft serve.

Shiroyamakan, Shirakawa-go

Another fantastic ryokan I would recommend staying at for its delicious food is Shiroyamakan in the village of Shirakawa-go, one hour away from Takayama by bus. Chef-owner Takuya Matsufuru runs the ryokan with his family and is the fourth owner of the business, following in the footsteps of his mother who was the previous operator.

Once again, Hida beef is the star of the seasonal menu and chef Takuya serves A5-graded beef, which is the finest possible quality. The incredibly tender beef is served with seven different appetisers, such as soba noodles, sashimi, vegetables, tempura, rice, soup, and pickles.

Ezo Seafood, Niseko

In the popular ski resort town of Niseko is a fantastic restaurant called Ezo Seafood which is run by a fellow Aussie, James Gallagher, and his wife Keiko Takaoka. James’ commitment to seasonality and adapting to the shifting patterns in the market means that he drives two hours to the seafood market and back almost every day.

 Some of the amazing produce they had on the day that I was there included grilled squid and King Red crab. Since the seafood is so fresh, James and Keiko keep the dishes very simple in order to maintain the true flavour.